Monday, September 25, 2017

Hong Kong - Wet Market, Kowloon

Wet Market, Kowloon - toured on August 31, 2017
If you’re vegetarian or vegan, you might want to skip this post entirely and come back tomorrow for the last Hong Kong post. I’m a carnivore and even I almost converted as I faced the visual reality of seeing the live or nearly live versions of the protein I consume. But that’s looking at things from a very Western lens where we are used to our proteins in nice, flat, cellophane-wrapped packages in neat rows lined up in refrigerator units housed inside large, well-lit supermarkets.

In Asia, they’re a little closer to protein in their natural forms. They aren’t necessarily nice, neat, shrink-wrapped packs but they’re definitely very fresh. Culturally, they’re also not as squeamish (as me) and are more pragmatic. Less affluent populations literally cannot afford to forego cheaper sources of nutrition (fish harvested from the sea, poultry and pork, etc).

Our last full day in Hong Kong was a team-building activity where we gathered as a group to be taken on a tour of Kowloon’s “wet market”. In the Philippines, we would call them “palengkes”. In the US, they’re like farmers’ markets on steroids where not just produce is for sale but also poultry, fish, pork, beef, etc; some cooked and ready to eat, some raw and available for purchase in family-consumable sizes. 

Our guide said he wouldn’t call himself a food guide but he had spent years learning about the history of food and its culture in Asia and he had some interesting stories to impart about where certain practices came from and what those common practices were. For instance, he showed us a stand where selections of freshly cooked pork was laid out on a table. Customers can come up and choose what they wanted and walk away with their selection, the meat ready to eat and to supplement a family’s dinner.
Ovens are not common in Hong Kong (as they aren’t in the Philippines) and certain meats were rarely cooked by a home chef but were instead always purchased from vendors who had developed the expertise and had the facilities and sources to prepare the meat. It was easy for consumers to stop by on their way home from work to purchase parts of their dinner. This is the same in the Philippines so the practice wasn’t foreign to me. It’s no different than Europeans picking up a baguette on their way home from work to include as their dinner. There are many bakers who produce superior bread and have the facilities to do so and it’s culturally appropriate and easy to buy a fresh loaf than to spend the hours making it yourself.



We walked through various parts of the wet market. There were rough groupings of types of food; some were stalls, others were more traditional stores. The stalls were mostly the freshly cooked meats and poultry or raw seafood while the more traditional stores sold fresh produce. We did go to a particular building that housed 3 stories, the first two floors of which were stalls upon stalls of fresh seafood or produce. And when I say “fresh seafood”, I actually mean “live fish” you can select. Some were freshly killed and keeping in water. This was the umpteenth time I considered going vegetarian even though I don’t eat a lot of vegetables. But I could definitely understand why people go vegetarian and vegan.
Chinese doughnut


But I wasn’t there to judge (or be a hypocrite). It was an interesting, close-up look at Kowloon’s wet market, an exposure to a different type of “foodie” experience, one that is more real than I usually get. It gave me a huge appreciation for the amount of work that goes into providing a food supply for the population and it’s probably normally thankless work. 









Sunday, September 24, 2017

Hong Kong - Ho Lee Fook

Ho Lee Fook - dinner on August 30, 2017
Yes, you read the name right. Sound it out if you wonder why we got a chuckle when our Hong Kong host brought us here. But supposedly it means “good fortune for your mouth”. Apparently, this is locally famous and well-known for its beef ribs. It didn’t matter. Our Hong Kong host(ess) hadn’t steered us wrong yet so I was a willing lemming to follow her lead.
We entered the restaurant at street level, saw a bunch of mounted cat clocks (see pic, I’m not kidding) at the top of the stairs and took the stairs down into a darkened room that had a definite clubby feel. This is not a place where you take your sweetie so you can whisper sweet nothings to each other. This is good for group dinners, small and large, when you want a high energy, dancy vibe. Awesome 80s music the whole time we were there so it made me feel right at home.

Once again I cannot tell you what exactly we ate so this isn’t going to really be a restaurant review but more like a food porn post with some words. And some of my pictures didn’t really turn out because the lighting was so dark and I did not have the luxury of making fussy lighting adjustments with my phone before the dishes were passed around and spoons gouged out servings. So it’s more about “hey, here’s one of the places we ate at in Hong Kong”.
By now, I was a veteran of our team meals and had learned to pace myself. No matter how good something was, I knew enough to only take a small portion or else I was going to be hopelessly full too soon and would miss out on possibly the best dish(es).
Two dishes did stand out though. One was fried chicken wings that were crisp and amazingly flavorful. They were spicy; you know I don’t normally go for the spicy but these were really good, not burn-your-mouth-spicy but wake-up-and-say-hello-flavorful-spicy. At first I couldn’t recognize them, not just because of the poor lighting but because they were literally buried under a pile of crisply toasted chili peppers. At least that’s what I assume they were. I don’t know if anyone ate the chilis “straight” but the chicken wings were soon gone and the platter only contained crispy peppers.
The other dish that stood out in my memory came out last (see, this is why I save room) and were the famous ribs. I had gotten used to thinking of American-style ribs like baby back ribs but these were dinosaur-sized (okay, I exaggerate) ribs with generous slices of beef arranged around the bone. The outer edges were almost charred but only served as a nice contrast to the tenderness of the beef ribs inside. Very yum.
I miscalculated my pacing though and ran out of room for dessert. Which was some kind of ice cream or yogurt with some sort of fruit, served in bowls meant to be shared by 2-3 people. I cried uncle by then and didn’t get to take a picture so you’ll have to just imagine it. Another great dinner, another fun night in Hong Kong.

Saturday, September 23, 2017

Hong Kong - Playt (buffet lunch)

Playt - buffet lunch on August 30, 2017 at The Park Lane Hotel in Hong Kong
The second day of our offsite had a packed agenda so we didn’t have time to leave the hotel for lunch like we had done the day before. Fortunately, the hotel had a buffet restaurant on the ground floor so it was quick and convenient to troop down there instead.

I’m going to preface the rest of this post by saying when it comes to buffets in Asia or any other part of the world, I’ve been forever ruined by Niu by Vikings in the Philippines. That’s pretty much the pinnacle of all buffets with its block-long stations of different types of cuisine and the plethora of superior offerings. Vegas casinos have nothing on Niu.


So you’ll have context for when I say Playt was okay. It wasn’t bad but it didn’t come close to toppling Niu for me. There was an eclectic selection of food. And by eclectic, I mean offerings from made-to-order soup bowls/hot pot to sushi to a carving station to chicken nuggets and fries. The selection was varied but offered in small portions so the buffet didn’t take up a lot of room. Presumably the restaurant staff were quick to replenish the serving dishes since they didn’t seem to run out of anything.

I had my usual plate of mixed assorted small bites of “real” food including a custom-made bowl of noodle soup so I had room for dessert. The desserts were sectioned off, almost like a mini candy and ice cream store but with a variety of plated desserts, some macarons and a gelato “stand”.  Gelato, yum.




Although, I did mention I don’t have very Asian taste buds, right? The flavors were a bit too exotic for my non-adventurous taste buds except for the chocolate gelato. It was billed as chocolate banana and at first I was hesitant because I’m actually not a fan of banana and chocolate combined. Unless it was whole banana being dipped into warm liquid milk chocolate as part of a chocolate fondue offering.










Therefore I was pleasantly surprised that by banana, they made frozen bits of bananas as a mix-in to the chocolate gelato. I had thought it was be mashed banana stirred into the chocolate before freezing as gelato. This way was much better. Turns out I’m definitely a fan of frozen banana chunks suspended in chocolate gelato.




As is customary in Asia as well as Europe, the serving was small. That was okay. It gave me an excuse to go back a second time and ask for the single scoop in a cone. Something to take back with me when we got back together for the afternoon session.